A fuse for a 250 watt switching power supply full

QRZ Forums. It can easily require Amps when transmitting with full power. I ran across a Mega Watt S on ebay. I've read all positive reviews on eham and other review sites. Despite the reviews, I am still a little weary of a switching power supply, and even more of one so inexpensive and from a brand I'm not familiar with.

Thanks and 73! A lot of these switching power supplies puts out lots of high frequency noise on the DC bus QST ran a review on a number of them All I remember is the MFJ power supply was cleaner than the rest If nothing else running the output through a couple of chokes with a couple of capacitors should clean things up.

AC0TXSep 26, Thank you. I ended up purchasing it and it seems to be a great little power supply. Very quiet and super cool.

a fuse for a 250 watt switching power supply full

A friend of mine bought two of them at the same time. I hate to say it but both are in the trash. His only lasted about a month or two. Do youself a favor and get an Astron switching supply.

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I've use Aston for over 35 years and my first Astron is still working and I use it everyday. We've also used them in the industry to run our business radios and again they worked great. Barry www. KU3XNov 14, Astron power supplies are wonderful, but they are not the only power suppy made though some think so.

I have 2 Mega Watt supplies and have had great luck with them. They are Crow Bar protected, quiet on my radios and guarenteed for 2 years. It would be great if every one of us had all the money we needed for our hobby, huge antenna farms that cost more than my house etc.

For the price, they are an excellent way to save some money and get on the air sooner if you are new to the hobby. I run lower priced and used equipment, I do try not to skimp on my antennas, some of them are even home madedoes that mean I should not be a Ham?

Last edited: Nov 29, Works great for me.


No HF interference far as I can tell.QRZ Forums. I was testing out a little Radio Shack I wanted to try it on the air to see if it made any RF hash. It states right on the unit that it is rated at 2. I figured it should give about 35 watts. It has a fuse but I'm not sure if it's in the AC primary line or the low voltage output. I tried it with my 2-m FM rig set at 10 watts and it was OK on receive but blew the power supply fuse on transmit.

Any explanation? The fuse was a 3 amp fuse! What size fuse should that little power supply have? Therefore, it could blow almost instantaneously if the current rating is exceeded! You did not tell us how much current your rig is rated for at the 10 watts OUTPUT, but many radios only turn about half the current drawn by the rig into RF at the antenna. That is to say, a 10 watt radio on 2 meters might consume 20 to 30 watts of total power remember, the P.

Actually, a 2. Edit: BTW, just replacing the fuse that the power supply was designed around with a heavier fuse is NOT a good idea, either. The regulation might suffer, the power supply might run hot a danger in itself and you might even have hum and other problems with the signal over the air.

None of that is desireable! Hope this helps. AG3YJul 5, I have repaired hundreds of that power supply and has always been that link fuse blown. I agree with AG3Y that using a higher rated fuse is not a good idea, nor is it a permanent solution, and I hope I made that clear above. But troubleshoot before tearing apart a transformer.

a fuse for a 250 watt switching power supply full

That should be last resort. Even for a Rat Shack design, a user replacable fuse should blow before a wiring link inside a transformer fails. Otherwise, the fuse would be totally useless. WB7DMX, you're making no sense at all.

LKN says he has a radio shack power supply that has a user replacable fuse in it. I also have radio shack supplies that have user replacable fuses in them. He did'nt say that his power supply no longer works even with the fuse replaced, so what would lead you to believe that the fuse link, if it has one, is blown?

Eric N3EF.Last Updated: August 29, References. To create this article, volunteer authors worked to edit and improve it over time. This article has been viewed 36, times. Learn more When your power supply dies, it can mean two things — either a fuse has been blown, or it has a loose wire. Power supply fuses are among the few components that can be serviced.

Most fuses are soldered directly to the circuit board. Replacing a fuse would require you to remove the circuit board, unsoldering the old fuse, and soldering a new fuse in its place. Every day at wikiHow, we work hard to give you access to instructions and information that will help you live a better life, whether it's keeping you safer, healthier, or improving your well-being.

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How To Repair 12V Powersupply

Unplug the Power Supply. Switch off the socket that is connected to the power supply. Unplug the line voltage power cord from the socket. Remove the PSU casing. Unplug the low voltage cables that are connected to the drives and motherboard. Remove any cards that may obstruct your view of the power supply. Unscrew the Power Supply.

Generally, the power supply is held in place by 4 torx screws. Unscrew them using the torx screwdriver and remove the power supply from the PSU.By using our site, you acknowledge that you have read and understand our Cookie PolicyPrivacy Policyand our Terms of Service. Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for electronics and electrical engineering professionals, students, and enthusiasts. It only takes a minute to sign up.

Electrical fuses

I have a 12Volt 20Amp Watt regulated power supply to use for a table top pinball game - comprising of solenoids 2 12V 8A peaksome LEDs and a micro controller. The unit has an internal fuse but I also need a fuse for the AC IEC socket which has an on-off switch and separate fuse on the back of the cabinet, and also one for the main wall plug.

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Would a 3A fuse be fine for both the socket and the wall plug, or should I use a different combination? The biggest primary surge is power on. Normally PSU's will store enough energy for 1 cycle dropout.

The fuse isolates a fault and protects the wire and maybe some thermal failures, but cannot protect the electronics from every failure mode. A good PS design protects itself so nothing needs to be added. CHeck the specs and suggested protection as required or your regional rules. I suggest if you want to isolate a failure on a breaker, the PS ought to have a fuse recommended by the supplier.

I did not check elsewhere. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered. What fuse to select for a W power supply Ask Question. Asked 1 year, 9 months ago.

a fuse for a 250 watt switching power supply full

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It only takes a minute to sign up. Background: I have a step-down transformer Pwhich is a single mains primary coil to 36V Center Tapped secondary. I'd like for both me and the power supply to not be destroyed if I happen to accidentally produce a short circuit on the secondary side.

a fuse for a 250 watt switching power supply full

The data sheet says for my particular transformer, "36V C. Question: Do I place a fuse on the primary or secondary coil, or both and should I use a 0.

Mega Watt Swiching Power Supply

I think the fuse needs to be on the primary coil though I'm not sure the valuebut when the transformer spec identifies 0. Research: I researched linear regulated power supply circuits and found the following schematics:. While these schematics all to very different things, they all share a commonality in that they show a fuse on the primary side of the transformer.

I read through this post asking general safety questions about a PSU schematic. That individual's schematic showed fuses on both the primary coil AND secondary sides. Proposed Schematic: Here is the schematic I plan to use for my power supply up to the linear voltage regulators. It is dependent upon the correct location and value of a fuse - I took a guess here:.

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Please note: I included a switch to float ground because I may want to probe with my oscilloscope and connect the probe's ground clip to something other than ground on my circuits. Your transformer has 0. You can fuse those with a [say] 0.

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The center tap doesn't nee a fuse. The fuse in the primary [if you want it] needs to be much smaller. For V primary, you have a turns ratio of about 3. A mA fuse should work there. Beware that if put the secondary side fuses after the rectifier they need to be DC fuses. AC and DC fuses are not the same because the latter need to cut the arc while in the former it gets cut by the AC sinewave itself.

Use a fuse for the primaries rated for 1. Reason is, that the inrush current is much higher than the average current. Fuses on the secondary are optional but if you have the space for them I suggest to add them. It's much easier to drop in a new fuse than to change burned out voltage regulators. You just have to add a few resistors and a transistor. There is an example for this in the datasheet. The fuse on the primary is there to prevent a short on the transformer melting wires in your wall and starting a fire in your house.

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Fuses won't necessarily protect against a brief overcurrent thru silicon that may be enough to destroy it before the fuse melts. Fuse always connect primary side of distribution transformer the reason is that when any surge come and also overloading this fuse protect the transformer from damange Transformer is costly so we protect transformer from damnage by putting fuse at its primary side.

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